Beekeepers and Opinions
Many topics in the world of beekeeping trigger numerous opinions. In our new series, On the Other Hand, we delve into both sides of common issues.
Though something of a cliché, it’s often said that if you ask a question of 10 beekeepers, you are likely to get at least 11 opinions! Joking aside, it’s true that beekeeping triggers so much discussion, which is one of its joys. From the more mundane (“Should I use a queen excluder?”) to the broader, more far-reaching (“Do I really need to treat for Varroa?”), there are virtually no beekeeping topics where beekeepers uniformly share the same opinions.
There are so many resources available now to beekeepers, in the form of websites, YouTube videos, webinars, and good, old-fashioned books. But as the new beekeeper starts and expands their knowledge, they sometimes come across contrary perspectives on apparently benign topics.
In some ways, this can be infuriating and confusing. But with a mindset of always having an open mind and a burning desire to continue learning, beekeeping is a hobby that just keeps on giving.
But, yes, it can be a problem, especially for the new beekeeper who hasn’t yet established concrete ideas. So how do we at PerfectBee approach this? Rather than “dictate”, we prefer to educate and discuss the myriad of topics, so each beekeeper can form his or her own informed opinion. And here’s the thing…even with seemingly clear and well-established “facts”, there is often a different perspective. And quite often, that alternative viewpoint actually comes from a place of truth.
In this, the first article of our new “On The Other Hand….” series, we’re going to look at some of these topics that trigger different opinions. For each statement, we offer a “Case For…” and “Case Against…”. The intent is NOT necessarily to lean one way or the other. Instead, we try to take a balanced look at both sides of our opinionated coin. Doing so, we hope, exposes perspectives you may not have considered.
Let’s kick off with…
🐝"To enable worker bee success, avoid using a queen excluder”🐝
As many beekeepers are aware, the grid-like queen excluder was introduced as a tool to control the queen's movement within the hive, preventing brood in honey supers. In some circumstances this works like a charm. However, many decide against using a queen excluder. It’s quite common to hear those with a less-than-positive opinion of queen excluders to provocatively call them “honey excluders”! Let’s take a look at this debate.
This makes sense because:
Separating the bees with an excluder is unnatural. In the wild, honeybees live and work together. They have the system figured out.
The larger drones can get stuck in the excluder.
Worker bees' wings can get damaged as they pass through the small opening.
The brood box can become honey bound, meaning the queen has nowhere to lay eggs, thus fewer bees are produced.
Many beekeepers feel they see a higher honey yield when bees are not inhibited by an excluder. They move more freely and produce honey quickly.
On the other hand…
A queen excluder allows for easier hive inspections, as you know where the queen will be (or, more specifically, where she will NOT be).
This can make it easier if you need to isolate the queen for frame manipulation, making splits, or combining hives.
Additionally, since only honey is found in the honey super (no brood to worry about) harvesting honey is more straightforward.
It can help control hive population for the types of bees that prefer to make brood instead of honey by limiting brood to certain boxes.
Less brood means fewer Varroa mites (and who doesn't want that?).
🐝"You should always leave the honey in the first year of beekeeping”
It’s recommended that in the first year of a hive, one should not harvest any honey, but rather leave it all for the bees. As a general rule, you can’t go too wrong with this mentality and it’s a conservative and pragmatic approach. But not everyone agrees.
This makes sense because:
One should always put the bees' wellness first. This takes into consideration that small (which includes new nucs) or weak colonies need all the honey they can make.
We want our bees to successfully survive winter! This means they have plenty of honey to consume (50-80 pounds, depending on the intensity and length of your winter).
If you live where winters are warm, the bees will be more active and consume more honey.
We also want our bees to thrive. This means they have plenty of honey, even in summer, for dearths or rainy days.
Some beekeepers consider a colony that has not yet successfully overwintered to be “unproven” in terms of their honey needs.
On the other hand...
You may have started with a large colony (ie, a full deep with 10 frames, brood, pollen, and honey) and feel comfortable they have the resources they will need.
You may have had an exceptional nectar flow this season, and that honey HAS to go somewhere!
You may not have experienced a dearth this year.
You may live where winters are short and mild.
You may plan on feeding your bees through the winter and feel that this, alongside their honey reserves, will be all they need.
🐝”Always start with two or more hives”🐝
When asking or being asked about how to start beekeeping, most everyone hears (or suggests) that starting with a minimum of two hives is a good idea. That’s with good reason and, in fact, is one aspect of starting beekeeping where we at PerfectBee have a pretty strong opinion. But, again, let’s look at both sides of this coin.
This makes sense because:
You can compare colonies, which helps you learn faster.
You will be able to sense more quickly when something is wrong
You may have the opportunity to save a weaker hive (ie, move a queen cell over, share brood-filled frames, share honey, etc.)
If one hive is weak, the strong colony collects honey, and you won’t miss the honey flow.
More hives help with swarm control because you can move frames between boxes.
More hives = more honey!
You’ll reach your goals faster.
You have more resources and options when things don’t go the way you hope. For instance, if you lose a hive, you still have one left.
On the other hand...
It’s less expensive to start with one hive.
You may have a very small space or perhaps live in a city where you cannot keep more than one hive (and equipment).
All your focus can be on just one hive- you can really “baby it”.
Maybe you’re very uncertain if beekeeping is the hobby for you, and just want to try it, starting small, before expanding your beeyard.
Perhaps you are completely aware of the possible loss of your one and only hive, and are fine with taking a chance. There are many stories of people who started with just one hive and then started making splits the next year. Some beekeepers successfully keep one hive only, and have done so for years.
There are no rules as to how many to start with (and you have that rebel attitude, lol).
Conclusion
For new beekeepers starting their journey, remember that your path will be unique! Sifting through the opinion glut is just part of the adventure. It's essential to weigh both sides of these arguments and make informed decisions based on your values, your local environment, and your personal goals as a beekeeper.
And for the seasoned beekeeper, you may find yourself in changing circumstances that require a look into the “other side” of the topic. You may have even surprised yourself in the past when you altered opinions and “polarized” to the opposing view. And thus it goes, in the ever-changing world of beekeeping.
In the upcoming posts of this series, we'll explore more beekeeping myths, facts, and views, and investigate both sides of the topic. If you're ready to learn and grow, you're in the right place. Let's navigate this together!
Stay tuned for our next post, and remember to keep your minds open and your bee suits on (which is another polarizing statement to be explored)!
Happy beekeeping!
If you have any questions or topics you'd like us to cover, feel free to leave a comment below!